CALZARI. — Under the name of calzari it is customary to understand everything that covers the foot and the leg, whether shoe or stocking; but in liturgical terms calzari are distinguished from sandals: the latter are external footwear, the former are properly speaking stockings that cover the entire foot and leg up to the knee.
At first the clergy, even for footwear, used the same as those of civil life. But then, from the 5th century, the calzari (ostigae, tibialia, campagi, udones) used by senators and imperial dignitaries came into use among the higher clergy, not only in Rome but also in Milan and Ravenna: a clear sign of the growing influence of ecclesiastical authorities, especially in imperial cities. In the 6th century the Pope and his deacons had calzari (campagi) of a special shape, as is evident from a letter of St. Gregory the Great to John, Bishop of Syracuse. In the 8th century the False Donation of Constantine granted to all the Roman clergy the right to use, like the Senate, footwear "cum udonibus, id est candido lineamentis": these udones would be our calzari. In the museums of Rome and Ravenna one can see calzari of various shapes and colors. Later, this general use gradually diminished, and from the 10th century onwards calzari were reserved for bishops alone. In the 12th century cardinal priests also obtained them. The concession to abbots became general starting from the 11th century.
In current discipline we must distinguish stockings from calzari properly so called. Stockings are part of ecclesiastical dress and follow, in their color, the rules of the vestments of the clergy. The Supreme Pontiff wears white stockings over which, in pontifical functions, he wears white or red calzari according to the rite. Cardinals wear red stockings, except on Good Friday and during the vacancy of the Apostolic See, when they wear purple ones. Cardinals belonging to monastic or mendicant orders do not wear red footwear, but retain the color of their religious habit. Patriarchs, archbishops, and bishops have the use of purple silk stockings, but with the same distinction as mentioned for religious cardinals. During the time of a vacant See and on Good Friday they wear black stockings. All prelates of the Holy See wear purple stockings with the exceptions mentioned above. Monsignors of the mantellone use black stockings.
Calzari, on the other hand, have exclusively liturgical use and are worn in pontifical Masses by cardinals, bishops, abbots, and prelates who have the privilege. They are not worn at funeral Masses or on Good Friday. Their shape is that of a slightly wider stocking and they are made of silk or of gold and silver thread, in all liturgical colors except black.