CALZARI. — Under the name of calzari one commonly understands everything that covers the foot and the leg, whether shoe or stocking; but, speaking liturgically, the calzari are distinguished from sandals: the latter are the outer footwear, while the former are the stockings properly so called, which envelop the entire foot and leg up to the knee.
At first the clergy used, even for footwear, the same kinds worn in civil life. But subsequently, from the fifth century onward, the calzari (caligae, tibialia, campagi, udones) used by senators and imperial dignitaries came into use among the higher clergy, not only in Rome but also in Milan and Ravenna: a manifest sign of the growing influence of ecclesiastical authorities, especially in the imperial cities. In the sixth century the Pope and his deacons had calzari (campagi) of a special form, as appears from a letter of St. Gregorio Magno to Giovanni, bishop of Syracuse. In the eighth century the false Donation of Constantine granted to the entire Roman clergy the right to use, like the Senate, footwear «cum udonibus, id est candido linteamine»: these udones would be our calzari. In the mosaics of Rome and Ravenna, calzari of various forms and colors can be seen. Then, little by little, this general usage became restricted, and from the tenth century onward the calzari were reserved exclusively for bishops. In the twelfth century they were also granted to cardinal priests. The concession to abbots became general beginning in the eleventh century.
In the current discipline, we must distinguish the stockings
CALZARI – Above: sandal in embroidered silk (12th–13th centuries). Castel S. Elia. Below: sandal in damasked silk (12th–13th centuries) – Bressanone, Cathedral.
from the c. properly so called. The stockings form part of ecclesiastical dress and, in their color, follow the rules governing the vestments of clerics. The Supreme Pontiff wears white stockings, over which, during pontifical celebrations, he dons white or red c., according to the rite. Cardinals have red stockings, except on Good Friday and during the vacancy of the Apostolic See, when they wear purple ones. Cardinals belonging to monastic or mendicant orders do not wear red footwear, but retain the color of their religious habit. Patriarchs, archbishops, and bishops use purple silk stockings, but with the same distinction mentioned for religious cardinals. During the vacancy of the See and on Good Friday they wear black stockings. All prelates of the Holy See wear purple stockings, with the exceptions noted above. Monsignors in mantellone wear black stockings.
The c., on the other hand, are used exclusively for liturgical purposes and are worn at pontifical Masses by cardinals, bishops, abbots, and prelates who have the privilege. They are not worn at funeral Masses or on Good Friday. Their form is that of a somewhat wider stocking, and they are made of silk, or of gold and silver lamé, in all liturgical colors except black.