VOLTERRA, DIOCESE OF
Volterra is a city in the province of Pisa, in Tuscany, and the diocese comprises the provinces of Pisa, Livorno, Grosseto, Siena, and Florence. It extends over 1,913 km² with a population of 113,600 inhabitants, all Catholic, 112 parishes, 140 diocesan priests, and 22 regular clergy; it has a seminary, 5 male religious communities with a total of 26 members, and 34 female communities with 275 members (Ann. Pont. 1953, p. 491).
Disregarding legends that do not withstand even the most lenient criticism, Volterra, an ancient and celebrated Etruscan city, became an episcopal see in the second half of the 5th century, as documented by a letter from Pope Gelasius I (492-96; MGH, Auct. antiqu., XII, p. 389 n. 2), and was fully organized with its movable and immovable assets—praedia mancipia—along with the presence of the archdeacon and the legal and administrative guardian. Among the bishops are remembered Elpidius, who was in Rome in 501-502 (ibid., pp. 436, 454); Gaudentius during the time of Pelagius I (558-60); Peter under Stephen V (886); Roger under Paschal II (1105-15) and Callistus II (1119-24); Galganus under Eugenius III (1151) and Adrian IV (1154-59).
An initial state of the diocese is provided by the two papal bulls of Alexander III (1179) and Urban III (1187) to Bishop Hugh. It extended from the Elsa River to the Tyrrhenian Sea, near Vada, from the foothills of Montepaggio to Tocchi and the first Val d'Era: 48 pievi (mother churches), and 12 monasteries. A more extensive and complete description is given by the synod of Bishop Belfortus (1356): the territory, already divided into fifths since 1274 into sixths—city and slopes, Val d'Elsa, Val d'Era, Marittimo, Val di Strove, Montagna—52 pievi, 326 churches, 23 monasteries, and 42 hospitals, which from the 12th to the 15th century, though some had brief existences, totaled 116. A convent of Friars Minor was added in 1251, and one of Augustinians in Volterra in 1279. Some monasteries date back to the early years of the 11th century, associated with the religious restoration movement, also erected by local lords for their own salvation. More famous, even for their art, are the Camaldolese abbey of S. Giusto in Volterra (1034) and the abbey of S. Galgano in Val di Merse, the first Cistercian foundation in Tuscany. Three pievi, although within the territory (Colle, Elsa with its 16 subordinate churches, and Morrona), are exempt from episcopal jurisdiction.
In the Middle Ages, the bishops, counts, and princes of the Holy Roman Empire also exercised civil jurisdiction; the first records date back to 821. By imperial privilege, they struck coins, among other things. A characteristic of the time was the existence of a Universitas Cleri, that is, the corporation of the diocesan clergy, including exempt members, established in 1265 and still active in 1454.
Another census is from 1596: 49 pievi, now no longer mother churches, 223 parishes with cura animarum, 44 without cura, 15 in ruins, 24 oratories, 23 hospitals; also the monasteries: in Volterra, the Friars Minor of S. Girolamo (1445), a House of Benedictine nuns (1548-1821), Capuchins (1573-1922); later the Piarists (1711-1935), where the young Mastai Ferretti, later Pius IX, was educated; also the Capuchins in Peccioli. When the pieve of Colle d'Elsa was elevated to a diocese in 1592, Volterra immediately lost 80 parish churches; then in 1782, another 52, including the famous castle of S. Gimignano.
Among the notable figures, we limit ourselves to mentioning the saints. Apart from St. Linus, successor of St. Peter and principal patron of the diocese, whom tradition claims was from Volterra, are Anthony of Monticiano, Vivaldo of S. Gimignano, Galganus of Chiusdino, James of Montieri, hermits, Attine and Grecinaia, and Bishop Hugh.
The Cathedral has always been dedicated to the Virgin, and from the earliest parchments of the 9th century in the episcopal and canonical archives, it is known as S. Maria di Mezzo Agosto. The city festival par excellence has economic and social characteristics and a complete and solemn liturgy of the first class with an octave. It was consecrated on May 20, 1120, by Pope Callistus II. The façade, attributed by G. Vasari to Nicola Pisano, is more likely the work of Pisan architects. The interior has three naves divided by monolithic columns with 16th-century capitals; the pulpit is from the 13th century, restored with bas-reliefs depicting episodes from the Old and New Testaments; on the left portal, a terracotta bust of St. Linus by Giovanni della Robbia; arch of St. Octavian by Raffaele Cioni da Settignano. In the main chapel, two angels holding candelabra by Mino da Fiesole. The Baptistery (1283), octagonal, is the work of Girolamo di Jacopo da Como or da Lugano; externally it has alternating isometric layers of white and green marble; the portal is Romanesque; the ciborium is by Mino da Fiesole, completed in 1467-71; until 1590 it was in the Duomo. The church of S. Michele has a Romanesque façade inspired by those of Pisa. The church of S. Francesco has a fresco dated 1410 by Cenni di Francesco di ser Cenni, depicting the Invention of the Holy Cross. At 1 km from Volterra is the church of S. Girolamo, from the 15th century with later restorations, which houses two terracottas by Giovanni della Robbia from 1501 and a panel by Benvenuto di Giovanni signed and dated 1470, depicting the Annunciation with the Eternal Father above, and the saints Michael, Catherine of Alexandria, and the commissioner.
The Guarnacci Museum began with the collection of Canon P. Franceschini; it took its name from the munificent Monsignor Mario Guarnacci (1701-85), who donated his rich collection to the municipality in 1781. It contains one of the most remarkable collections of Etruscan art, including over 600 cinerary urns from the 3rd century BC.
The municipal picture gallery in the Palazzo dei Priori is rich in works by Tuscan painters. Notable is the panel with the Annunciation by Luca Signorelli, dated 1491; the Redeemer in Glory by Domenico Ghirlandaio with the saints Benedict, Romuald, Attine, and Grecinaia, and in the right corner the commissioner Abbot Buonvicino; the Deposition from the Cross in wood by Rosso Fiorentino, 1521; Nativity by Benvenuto di Giovanni (1470).
The Guarnacci Library has over 30,000 volumes, 500 manuscripts, and 233 incunabula. The municipal historical archive has documents dating back to the year 907 and manuscripts to 1219; the statutes are particularly valuable, and it has a rich numismatic collection.
In the Piazza Maggiore stands the 13th-century Palazzo dei Priori with the coats of arms of the Florentine commissioners; the Palazzo Pretorio with the tower called del Porcellino for the sculpture at its top. At S. Dalmazio, between Pomarance and Larderello, are the ruins of the pieve and the Romanesque church with Gothic elements. In the parish church is a della Robbia tabernacle. At Silano is a grand fortress of the bishops of Volterra, which had a triple ring of walls and a polygonal keep. At Monteverdi Marittimo are the ruins of the abbey of S. Pietro in Palazzolo. Notable are the ancient pievi of Cellori and Ghianni d'Elsa.
The diocese of Volterra has from its origins and remained, by privilege, a Roman province and thus immediately subject to the Holy See. Pius IX aggregated it to Pisa and granted, in compensation, the privilege of the papal pallium. — See plate CLV.